2013年6月17日星期一

Creative Class | Robbie Spencer, Fashion Director

LONDON, United Kingdom - Robbie Spencer then beetles and butterflies on the faces of the models pantyhose and food on their bodies. He dressed nonagenarian Iris Apfel fat, layers of floral prints Comme des Gar?ons and Daniel Radcliffe turned into a zombie.  On the way, helped the former designer of 29 years, who was recently appointed director of the fashion magazine youth culture influence Dazed & Confused, create some images of the most striking fashion editorial for the likes of Vogue Italia, Vogue Hommes International, another V and The New York Times T, as well as working with brands such as Topman, Diesel Black Gold, Neil Barrett and Raf Simons. "I'm working on so many different levels - show style or advice, and the monthly magazine Dazed as a whole and contribute to various other titles - I'm almost to another helmet for any other job I'm doing," he said. Spencer was born in Swindon, a town in the west of England. As nice as he found the land between Oxford and Bath: "I knew from the off of the type of creative profession that I just would not happen, wanted to explore in this kind of place I knew I had to as soon as. possible to exit. However, I was fully aware of his young age that fashion is to take a very difficult task. I knew from the beginning that I had to start early and make placements. " At the age of 19 years, Spencer came to London to continue his studies and a degree in fashion promotion, with a specialization in journalism at the London College of Fashion. But he got an education as important, Dazed & Confused, where he started an internship and help a large group of mentors, including designer Alistair Mackie and Nicola Formichetti, while he was a student. "I started helping the team Dazed Fashion and gradually more involved. When the team changed its young and dynamic team members have gradually assumed more responsibility. And when was fashion director Nicola Formichetti, things change very quickly," he recalls. "Dazed was a school for me and for many people this is a place where so many great people are from him since Jefferson [Hack] Rankin and Katie Grand began together the magazine. all used it as a kind of training ground and are always another part of this extended "family. Spencer originally as a career in the art world. "I wanted to be around a conservative, space designer or a stylist," he recalls, "but I was very interested to work in London and get a job and a career quickly. I see fashion as a way to do it while remaining creatively fulfilled.'s fashion, it's quite easy to move pretty quickly if you give something, and you have the right people to support you. " But the background of the art of Spencer had a significant influence on his approach to design. "I'm going style of an idea, an image or perform a room, as opposed to just one point of clothes in contrast," he said. "The more I with Dazed, I participated clear that the clothing is actually a tool you use to create a picture or tell a story." But what exactly does Spencer do? "That's what I try to explain to my family if I do, especially to see my grandmother. It's really hard. Often people do not know there are so many people in such a picture and a magazine involved and although they knew that they have no idea what all these people really are. " At the lowest level is the work of Spencer "clothes original and interpreted in an image., But it's also inspire your readers and try to educate or enlighten people to new ideas., The term designer is very large, it can be anything from a Coordinator wardrobe for a movie or music video or a celebrity, or more than one artistic director be considering the execution of an image, not just the person who brings the equipment with them. It really depends on how much you want to be , are the clothes, a tool for a designer, but I prefer to think the entire construction of an image. " The work can be so stressful as it is exciting. "It's really changed," says Spencer. "Many of them are on the road - Milan, Paris, New York. - And many appointments she pushes, much of which is being prepared for the shoot dates" These days, the fashion director new hit spends too much time in the office dazed "try get my emails from 600-10. "A huge amount of styling or a fashion editor is the production and organization," he said. Said: "And a lot of this work is communication must be a great communicator and make sure that everything everyone in your team has the image you are trying to do I need to be able to get the idea that it is in my head. is the entire team, or it will not work to communicate. " "For editorial, everything is dictated by the show properly, we have a big meeting where we feedback on what we have seen in the salons that have inspired us. What is something a designer has shown me remember what was the historical or contextualize artistic reference. shows you and then interpret it in your own way. " Indeed, the work of Spencer is not blind spread the view of a fashion designer, but the addition of his own. "You want the designer to be happy, but you also want them to think," Oh, I do not think this way, or that it is an interesting way of shooting. " Designers, in fact, are often filled with the unexpected way in which Spencer Bed and configure their collections. Last year, after he had a shot Spencer cover with pieces from his collection, Miuccia Prada as impressed as they sent a box of special sweets, "they were these amazing sweet fruit pastel colors, a delicacy in Italy." Is to achieve the conceptual depth, is known for his work, Spencer's ideas and energy security staff from other disciplines like. "Once I made the show, or if I'm prepared for a shoot again, the first thing I do in order to develop this body of research, mood boards and referrals. Connections often come from outside the fashion and I love the working with people who are far from the industry, as it brings a new perspective to a fashion shoot, and this is what makes an image something else, and it takes another dimension. " Of course, photographers are the most important factor for a director of fashion and Spencer has an impressive list of accomplished lensmen, including Hedi Slimane, Mario Sorrenti, Paolo Roversi, Richard Burbridge, David Armstrong, Karim Sadli and worked friend, Ben Toms. "I usually start by pairing a photographer with an idea, so I set up a meeting with them to suggest the idea, and their feedback and we somehow build on the idea together, the team, models, hair, make determine designer-up and begin the process of realization of the idea and make it a fashion picture. " "What frustrates me most is that people think that this is a profession or insignificant if people think this is trivial, because his clothes. Course you're not saving lives, but at the same time you do something that has value and inspires people. Fashion influences everything is so much more than what people think it is. culturally driven as it is, but people do not realize, they think it's just clothes. " What advice Spencer for those looking to break into the style? "You have to start super early and you need to learn as much as possible about the work and study., It is nothing compared to what the practical experience of the industry in which we learn, in people who do because in this way you will also learn how to behave and how things look through other people, "he said. "I think the idea of ??helping recent years has become somewhat devalued, Culture recently people feel they do not need help, they think they can only do their own thing and now a stylist.  But you have respect for the people who are facing you were, you have to learn from someone and to understand in the right environment, how the industry works and how to communicate. then you take it and you'll find your own point of view about it. "

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